Calvin Klein Hem

This is called a ‘Calvin Klein Hem’ – Mr. Klein patented this hemming technique *shrug* looks like a rolled hem without any ‘rolled hem’ attachment to me but what do I know? This is used on a blouse or shirt and lies very flat. This hem can’t be seen when tucked in a skirt.

1. stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edge all the way around bottom of garment.

2. fold up on the stitch line and press

3. stitch 1/16 inch from folded edge

4. lay fabric on the flat of your open hand and trim from the raw edge
to the stitch line.. or as close as you can (this is where my short
rounded thread scissors comes in handy..I find more control)

5. fold up and press

6. stitch down

7. press

(this hem does come close to a rolled hem. Make a couple of
samples first, you may be able to get the hem even smaller.)


Mock Cover Stitch

Mock Cover Stitch

A Mock Cover Stitch can be created using your sewing machine. A Mock Cover Stitch works great on Knit fabric and adds a little more professional look to your finished garment. This is a nifty little trick if your serger does not do a cover stitch.

Your machine must have the capability to be able to use a twin or double needle. You will need to check your manual or check with your local sewing machine repair shop to see if your particular model is capable of using a twin needle. Machine Requirements; the sewing machine must be able to do a Zig Zag stitch and have either a top loading or front loading bobbin or if your machine threads from front to back. If your machine is older and has a side loading bobbin or it threads from the side it will not take a twin needle, refer to your manual.

You can purchase the two needles in one, referred to as a Twin Needle at different widths at any sewing machine store. The needle width you are looking for is a 4.0. Some machines are able to take two separate needles side by side but it does make for a narrower stitch. I prefer to use a 6.0 as it is a wider stitch. Be sure you machine can take a wider twin needle. Check the Zig Zag Needle Plate on your machine by placing the wider needle down into the opening. Take your needle plate for a zig zag stitch with you to the store. Place the needles so you can see if they fit within the space in the needle plate.
Hand wheel the needle down slowly to make sure there is enough clearance.

Thread both needles and make sure the bobbin is full. The thread will need to go on each side of the tension discs and since each machine will have different thread paths to follow, again refer to your manual. Make sure that the 2 needle threads aren’t rubbing against each other and that each thread has its own path.

Set the machine for a straight stitch and use standard machine thread for this technique.

*note… rather then purchase two spools of thread with the same color, wind a second bobbin to use on top. I also prefer to use Woolly Nylon in my bobbin when doing this mock cover stitch on knit, but not necessary. With thread it tends to create a little ridge between the two rows of stitching. The Woolly Nylon helps minimize the ridge. Woolly Nylon is a trade name for YLI thread, it is also known as Textured Nylon.

*Tip: To use Wooly Nylon in the bobbin, hand wind the Woolly Nylon onto a bobbin. Do not panic, that doesn’t mean you actually hand wind it onto the bobbin. It means you set up everything for bobbin winding like normal, but the difference is you wind very slowly and hold the Woolly Nylon between your finger and thumb to help guide it onto the bobbin. In a sense you are disrupting the tension of the machine’s winding. What is trying to be achieved it’s not really loose, but it’s not stretched out as it would be if I fed it through the machine’s tension guide.
I have a spool holder that sits on the table behind my machine that the Woolly Nylon goes onto. If you don’t have one you can hold the spool in your left hand to keep it stationary and guide with the right hand.


Serge the edge of the hem on your serger, then fold your fabric up 1 inch and press to create a hem, this also applies to the sleeves.

Assemble your garment

Stitch with fabric right side up, this means that the hem side will be down against the feed dogs and sew.

DO NOT stretch or pull your fabric as you are hemming, allow the feed dogs to feed the fabric and only guide the fabric along.

The top will have 2 rows of thread and the bottom will create this zig zag stitch. The idea is to place the left needle right on the raw edge which you can’t see because it is against the feed dogs.

You will need to do a couple samples, adjust your zig zag stitch until you are happy with the look on the garment. You may need to adjust the tension on your sewing machine a bit, make sure you make a sample of a standard stitch and write down the tension number before doing any adjustment on your sewing machine. You may want do several samples using scrap fabric before you try this on your finished garment.

Once you are pleased with your sample, attach it to a piece of paper with the tension adjustment written down and any helpful information on how you created this mock cover stitch. In other words, take what I have said, reword it so a year from now you can go back and recreate this stitch should you like it, you will clearly understand your instructions. Place sample/paper/with comment in a notebook (I keep them in a plastic sheet protector)

You can choose to serge the raw edge of the hem to finish it. If you don’t the twin needle stitching will finish the edge as it gets caught in the zig zag stitch.